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  • In Search of the Perfect Custom Bass - Part 5

    In Search of the Perfect Custom Bass

    By Lane Baldwin

    http://lanebaldwin.com

    Part 5: Hardware Made Easy

    Welcome to part five in a series of articles to help you commission your perfect custom bass. For those new to the series, here's what we've covered so far:

    Part 1 - Custom Is As Custom Does is an overview of the process of commissioning a custom bass.

    Part 2 - Exotic Bodies looks at the woods used in bass bodies.

    Part 3 - Stick Your Neck Out covers the neck in all its glory.

    Part 4 - Board Stiff provides an overview of the woods used for fingerboards and their characteristics.

    Now it's time to consider hardware: tuning keys, pickups, bridges and such. So let's dive right in.

    Tuning Keys

    Most builders already have their standard tuning keys, and unless you have a definite need for a different style, there's no need to ask for something different. The two most-used brands are Gotoh and Schaller. Schaller produces a "Fender®" style key for those wanting to create a Super Fender® and want the look of the original keys. Both companies make a lighter, more streamlined key which is what you're probably used to seeing on most basses (or something very similar). Finishes include silver, gold and black. Although I joke about it a lot, it is completely untrue that black hardware will give you a darker tone. However, it can be a very cool option with a wide variety of finishes.

    Bridges

    There are numerous options for bass bridges; some of the most popular are Hipshot, Schaller and Gotoh. However, many builders manufacture their own. They do this because they feel their design offers features unavailable from other bridges, or to enhance the tone of their instruments. If this is the case with your chosen builder, it is crucial to talk to your builder to learn why they use a particular bridge or build their own.

    Most bridges allow adjustment of string height and length. This is crucial when setting up an instrument. Some also allow adjustment of string spacing - that is, the distance between strings. Therefore, it's imperative to choose a bridge that matches the width of your neck.

    Some bridges offer string-through designs. What this means is that the string doesn't connect to the bridge like standard units. Instead, the string is fed through the body and over the bridge. Many players (and builders) believe this gives the bass greater sustain. I've used both and have been extremely happy. My Spector has a standard unit and it has great sustain. My Renaissance features string-through construction and I love it as well.

    My advice is that, unless you are absolutely certain you need a specific bridge, you listen to your builder and go with their recommendation. Keep in mind they've built a lot of instruments, experimented with numerous parts, and gained from the experience.

    Pickups

    Again, there are many aftermarket models available, including EMG, Bartolini, Basslines, Lindy Frailin and more. Furthermore, many builders offer their pickups for individual sale. There are many considerations in choosing pickups, far more than I have room for here. Here are the main differences.

    Single Coil or Hum Canceling - Single coil pickups offer a very vintage tone. Think early Fender®. The main problem with these is that that can be a bit noisy, creating a hum through the amplifier, mostly when you're not playing. However, it is possible to minimize this with shielding in the electronics cavity and other tricks, including the use of a noise gate in your signal chain. Hum canceling pickups do just that - cancel hum. This is accomplished by wiring two coils together a la Gibson Humbuckers. For those desiring the low noise of this design combined with a vintage look, some manufacturers offer designs that stack the two coils one on top of the other instead of the standard side-by-side configuration.

    Active or Passive - I'm not going to get "all technical", because I'm just not that kind of guy. But here are the basic differences between active and passive pickups. Passive pickups have no preamp. The tone is adjusted by a single control. As you roll the control off, it cuts the treble. Some basses with two or more pickups can have a tone control for each pickup, but they still operate in this same manner.

    If you are going with passive pickups, I suggest you talk to your builder about shielding the electronics cavity of your bass. This can be done with special copper foil or paint, both of which can help reduce hum.

    Active pickups use a preamp built into the bass. These can have more than one tone control: a bass, a treble, and perhaps some midrange controls. They offer more tonal possibilities, allowing the user to quickly dial in different sounds right on the bass. It's also important to remember that active pickups are normally somewhat hotter than passive pickups. You may need to turn down the input stage of your amp (or engage the input pad, if there is one) to avoid clipping in the preamp section of your rig.

    Before you even ask, there is no single style of pickup that is better than all the others. It really comes down to your personal preference. Do your research, play a ton of basses and talk to your builder. Then choose the system that gives you what you want from your bass.

    Preamps

    There are numerous products available on the market, including excellent versions from Sadowsky, EMG and others. In addition, some builders have their own models. Again, research is crucial if you don't already have experience and/or a preference. Most preamps will have at least two bands of EQ, some have three. Which is best for you is a matter of personal taste.

    Pickguards

    Some builders offer the customer the option of having a pickguard or not. Others don't; you either get one or you don't. If you have an option, it's up to you whether you want one or not. Some guys like it - especially pick users - because it can protect the finish of the bass from getting surface scratches caused by over-picking. Others prefer to see all the wood, especially if they're paying top dollar for a premium wood top. The question is: which looks best to you? The second question is: which color do you like best on your instrument? I can't answer for you, and neither can anyone else. The nice thing is that, if you change your mind about color, you can change your pickguard. The one thing to remember is that, if you have a pickguard installed and change your mind, you're going to have a bunch of little screw holes in the top of your bass. Bottom line: Take the time to be sure!

    The Nut

    The three main materials are hard plastic (kind of a fake ivory), graphite and brass. Many choose brass for its enhancement of sustain of open strings. Others prefer graphite because it's slippery and doesn't bind the string when tuning. Still others like the look of the white plastic because of its vintage appeal. I prefer brass, but you may not. Again, talk with your builder about options.

    Strap Buttons

    Many builders offer options here. You can get standard buttons or oversized, which help keep the strap in place. You can also have strap locks installed. On most of my basses, I use strap locks. However, my Renaissance custom features huge buttons, and my acoustic electric has the input jack end pin so popular on these instruments, which prevents the use of strap locks. In all other instances, however, I use strap locks because I like the extra security.

    There are two types of strap locks available, each of which has its fans. The Dunlop style features a female post attached to the strap; this inserts into the male "jack, which is attached to the guitar. The Schaller style features a U-shaped receptacle that locks around the modified strap button. While I prefer the Schaller style, the Dunlop can be recessed into the guitar for what some believe is a cleaner look.

    All Those Little Screws

    Not a lot to say here, except this: Do yourself a favor and match the finish of your screws to the finish of all other hardware if at all possible. It's just a cleaner look. Having said that, if the screws are hidden on the back, and the builder has a strong preference for a specific screw, it isn't going to kill you to have a different finish back there where no one can see it. This was the case on my Ren. Rick Turner refused to do black finish screws because the stainless ones he uses hold up better in the long term. Because he felt so strongly that changing to black would affect the overall integrity of the design, I went with his recommendation.

    I've been intentionally general in this article for a very specific reason: many of the decisions you make about hardware should be based on your own preferences. I don't want to color the process by inserting my own ideas about what's best and what isn't. After all, this is my bass we're talking about; it's yours.

    In the final installment of the series, I'll talk about putting everything together in a custom bass that's perfect for you. Until then, continue with your research and Keep Thumpin'!

    Homework

    OK, it's time once again to get out your notebook and go play some basses - a LOT of them. It's also critical to talk to players who have either modified the electronics on their instruments or have a custom instrument. Take a ton of notes as you go through the process.

    ©2004 - Lane Baldwin - reprinted by permission.
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