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Thread: Preferred Bass Strings

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Waialua, Hawaii
    Posts
    57

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    Rotosound Swing Bass... been using 'em for years. They're a little more expensive and they are harder on the frets if you have a heavy left hand, which I do, but they last a long time and I love the zing on the top end.

  2. #12

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    DR, Dunlop, and Elixer. All great strings. Give each a try for 90 days or so and see which 'resonates' with you. Let us know!

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    I had some extra money and bought some TI Jazz Flats. Really interested to see how they sound once broken in...

  4. #14

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    When I was at the music store a few weeks ago I picked up some "La Bella Deep Talking Bass Strings" but they were too short for my bass (weird because there was so "Short Scale" or something like that anywhere on the package).
    Fender 2012 American Standard Precision Bass (Left-handed)
    Fender '59 Bassman LTD.









  5. #15

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    Still lovin' the DR neons! Love the non-metallic feel of the coating. Any DR coated string feels that way... Black Beauties, too! Adds grip and sounds full and rich. Never too bright or sharp sounding. Yummy.


    - low life -

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Elk Grove California
    Posts
    727

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    The StingRay 5 come with Ernie Ball (BIG SURPRISE THERE) regular slinky. I was going to try some other strings but when I was at the musc store, I noticed that the extra low B adds quite a cost to the set of strings... So I will wait. I used to play RotoSounds and did like them. I have pretty much been a Daddario guy though.
    Nothing like a Great Bottom end!

  7. #17

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    I had some questions about strings myself, and I will try to get answers by plugging them into this thread instead of creating an entirely new one.

    I will start by answering the original question posted. I am way too new at playing the bass (lesson 2) to have any real informative input, but I changed the original strings that came with my bass over to Ernie Ball Slinky Cobalt strings (50-105). They feel smoother than the old strings. They are also louder. The advertisements are correct when they claim that they will also sustain for longer than nickel or steel strings. HOWEVER, I also find that I get much more noise from moving my fingers around on the strings. I don't know if that is because they are new, or if it is an effect of the string's composition. (That won't be much help, but it is what I can offer)

    So, on to my questions:

    About that string noise I just mentioned, is that because the strings are new, or is it because the cobalt/iron mixture is just that much more sensitive to the magnets in the pick-ups?

    How often should the strings be changed? Is it like an oil change in a car and the strings should be changed every so often regardless of the amount of use, or should you just change them if they break or get rusty?

    Does that Fast Fret really work? Sometimes my fingers just get stuck momentarily on the strings when plucking and it throws my timing off.

    How long does it take to break in a new set of strings? I'm sure that the answer is, "it depends on how much you play them." Assuming I practice 1.5-2 hours per day, should it take a few hours, days, weeks, or months?

    And finally, Sometimes when I am plucking my strings (usually with the middle finger) I get my finger under the string, and instead of plucking it parallel to the pick-ups, I pull it perpendicular to them, and it snaps back making a twangy/buzzy sound. (This is not the same twangy/buzzy sound I make when not fretting close enough to the wire) Are there suggestions on how I might stop myself from doing this?
    Last edited by Noel1983; 01-17-2013 at 04:05 AM. Reason: Spelling and punctuation
    Ibanez SR1200
    Ibanez AFB200
    Carvin MB210

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    2,088

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    New roundwound strings very often create a lot of finger noise when you are fretting the bass. The round wound construction leaves what are sometimes fairly sharp edges where the winding passes around the core. In some cases, with use, your fingers actually wear down the sharp edges and the noise is reduced. You are right, the time to achieve some softening of the brightness will vary by how much you play, and even how your fingers sweat as you play. Two people, same strings, same amount of playing, will likely result in two different break in periods. BTW, roundwounds inherently tend to provide a brighter, sharper tone.

    Some strings are coated, like the DR Black Beauties or other coated strings, that smooth out the sharp edges and make them a bit more quiet. They also claim the coating protects the string from the acids, sweat and crud from your fingers that causes strings to break down, therefore lasting longer. I use DR Black Beauties on my Tobias 6 string bass and over the years have found that these strings have lasted longer than other round wound strings I have used.

    Flatwounds are constructed with "ribbons" of material wrapped around the string, not "wires" like roundwounds. They are inherently smoother and very silky to the touch. They also seem to last much much longer than roundwounds. The flatwounds on my Fender P bass have been on there for about 10 years now and they still sound fine. However, they tend to produce a more muted, round, old school tone.

    There are also strings known as ground, or pressure wounds that start out as roundwound strings, with the brightness that is inherent in them, but in the final manufacturing stages, the strings are either ground down to a smoother surface, or are compressed to flatten the ridges. These strings may retain most, or at least some of the round wound brightness, but with a much smoother feel to the string.

    The issue with your finger getting stuck under the string is probably because of your plucking hand position and plucking movement. I find that unless I am looking for a very percussive, plucked tone (what you describe is like the tone that is produced when someone is using the slap/pluck style) I "pull" the fat of my finger tip over the string and allow it to come to rest on the next string. That prevents my fingertip from ever accidentally getting under the string, and ensures a very smooth, even finger stroke on every note. Perhaps move your anchour point up a bit so that your fingers are stretched out a bit flatter to reach the strings. That will change the angle of your fingertips where they touch the strings and help avoid those unexpected pops.

    I have never used Fast Fret so can't comment on it. The only time I've encountered stickiness of strings is with brand new, uncoated roundwounds.
    ___________________________________
    Steinberger NXT5 EUB, MTD 535 Fretless, Tobias Killer B6, 72 Fender Precision
    Eden WT500, WTX1000N & WP100, QSC PL230
    Eden D410XLT, D410XST, 215, Fender Bassman 10

  9. #19

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    Like TobiasMan says, your fingers might just be in the wrong position.

    Just roll your fingers off the strings like you're trying to wipe something off your fingers to the strings. Don't hook them or curl your fingers under the strings.

    Fast Fret and Finger Ease both work really well.


    - low life -

  10. #20

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    Thanks to TobiaMan and Elmeaux.

    I do use the finger rest technique in my plucking. When you suggest trying to move my anchor point up do you mean up towards the neck, or up on the body? Right now, I rest my thumb on the pickup closest to the bridge and pluck the strings between the bridge and the pickup.

    You know, I am coming to believe that there are just as many things to think of when it comes to playing the bass as there are to performing brain surgery. The choices and subtle changes making big differences in the quality of your music is just staggering. And I'm not even playing music yet, just learning scales!!! At least I have a ton of fun doing it.
    Ibanez SR1200
    Ibanez AFB200
    Carvin MB210

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